We just got out of the water and wow how relaxing. Sure, the water’s a little warm but that means we’ll still be body surfing when it is October. For what was predicted as 1-2 foot waves we did have some 4-foot stand-ups with rides of up to 60 feet.
Sure, we’re a little jealous because Florence is just beginning to bring in some swell to the East Coast. So far the waves are 4-6 feet and no big deal, but better than nothing. They say the surfers are flocking to Florida, the Carolina outer banks, and Guana Cay, Bahamas.
But with body surfing, who cares about extreme action? I suppose someday I must get a waterproof camera and GPS to prove these incredibly long rides because of the gentle sloping beach we have. But something about all that expensive gear takes the spirit away though: it’s just you, a swimsuit, and a wave. Having a thousand bucks of stuff would definitely ruin it.
And who do I have to prove to, anyway? We know the long rides, the ones that almost leave you gasping for breath. We know what the wave looked like and how funny it looked when you’re buried in the snout of a large breaking wave. That’s why there’s no picture today because folks, since the ya-ya’s are all inside your head, how happy you feel when you come home smiling.